Monkey at the 1 minute mark

One of the things that we really enjoyed, was participating in the Paris Lindy Hop weekend social, "I mustache you to dance" Activities were arranged for all weekend, we chose however to just dance on Friday night and Sunday on the lawn of the Science Center.
Let me just say, when the dancing began, the incredibly large barge was rocking in the water.

You Tube Version - Higher Def

Apartments for Rent

Harvey at the kitchen table

View of the courtyard from the kitchen

Sunny and Quiet Flat in Paris - The best thing about our first rental was the washer/dryer.

Un Petite Troglo

Best Bathroom ever

Sleeping in the Cave

Gite de Charme Troglodyte - Great rental, loads of room quiet and on the beaten path.

A tile job  after my own heart

View from the front window

Gite de Charme Semi Troglo Center Ville - Both of our rentals in Amboise were with Mireille Decrock. She was very accommodating even though the crazy Americans needed the heat turned on. She had decorated all of her properties beautifully and ensured that beds, pillows and towels were comfort standards. Included also was a small amount of breakfast supplies.

If staying in Amboise, the best grocery store is on the way out of town, E. Leclerc. The Carrefor on the main street is expensive.

Chartres Lights at Night

Vivid Colors of the light show.

I have to spend a little more time in Chartres. Mentioned in my last post, Chartres is the home of luminieres but is also regarded as the perfume capital of the world. The Cosmetic Valley, as it is referred to,  consists of 800 companies like Paco Rabanne, Guerlain and Nina Ricci, to name a few.  

Art Nouveau covered market

One of the few “touristy” things we did while in France was to pay to ride on a Choo-Choo Tour train, to see the lights. At the end of our French adventure, our dogs were almost dead and the tour began way after our bedtime. So our thought was to sit back and let the Choo-Choo do the walking. We were on the train a full hour before starting. Smashed into a row of 4, our male seat companion was a nice French Malaysian gentleman who spoke great English. He had made a pilgrimage to the Cathedral when he was younger and this was his first trip back.

On the Choo-Choo

The absolute best part of the tour was another car coming up the wrong way toward the Choo-Choo, on a small medieval street. The conductor and the driver getting out of their vehicles, yelling at each other on who had the right of way. Guess who won? 

They even allowed dogs on the Choo-Choo

Next morning was travel day. Yet again, we successful traversed the Perimeter of Paris and found our way to Charles de Gaulle, the car drop off and the line for XL Airway. Harvey saved 8 passengers, who were in the wrong and profoundly long line (to Cancun) by scouting out the correct service counter. We all scurried along, finding ourselves amongst the first 20 to board.  XL is like Southwest – first come, first served.

Yep, this is France

 Not wanting to be in a row of 3 for our 9 hour fight, we asked for the 2 to a row seats, which are in short supply. Even though they were in the back of the plane, where the engines are louder, we figured that our earplugs would take care of the noise factor. We had not counted on the French Farting Filles.  Our flight was a young flight. Average age, I would guess, early 30’s. How exciting to go to Miami! I get it. So these young Filles must have loaded up on beans, prior to the flight. It started before takeoff and became progressively worse for the next 5 hours. Instead of any embarrassment, these girls cackled like hens, each time a “bomb” was dropped. At one point, a gentleman on the other side of the plane, jumped up and started screaming at them in French, holding his noise, waving his arms about him. It only reduced these girls to hysterical and louder giggling. Even my years of wiping butts in the ED had not prepared me for the horror of this flight. Eventually a flight attendant spoke to them. Not being able to insert a cork in them, at least the shrieking stopped. 

Best bathroom prize, Amboise.

Next time, put me in a middle seat!

Blois to Chartres

I am tempted to say, that if you ever come to the Loire Valley, make your hub in Blois. Yes, the small villages of the castles are charming, quaint, yadda-yadda but Blois has the feel of Paris 25 years ago. It is the Loire Valley destination that the French head to.

The morning found us back in Center Ville at the Saturday Marche, and oh what a marche it was! Vegi’s, boeuf, handbags, mattresses, fish, paella, underware and puppies; all were represented. We strolled past booths lamenting that we did not have a gite to stay in for another week or so, so we could purchase our groceries.

Artichokes as big as my cat

We said au revoir to Blois and headed to Chartres, thru farm country. I have chosen a very tiny marked road on our map, which gets even smaller after leaving Chateaudun, our half way point. Sad that we are not here during sunflower season, nonetheless the fields are gorgeous. In the middle of nowhere we come upon an old decrepit moulon, sitting alone in the middle of vast fields of grain, with only a picnic table for company. Wild roses grow along the hedge.

Moulon

Chateaudun is another lovely town and yes, there is a chateau. Parking, we find the square and a local establishment and have one of our best French meals and perhaps, the least expensive.

Not sunflowers, but equally impressive

Toward evening, we arrive in Chartres, city of luminaries. Their Notre Dame, was build about the same time as her famous sister in Paris. Flying buttresses et al. After I have a flying shit fit at our hotel (which is fodder for another post and a scathing review in TripAdvisor), Harvey gently leads me up the hill toward the cathedral and more importantly, to a pitcher of white wine 

Maze on the grounds of the Cathedral

We’ve all seen those videos of light shows on old buildings, right? Where it looks like they are falling down, or turn red or dragons come out of porticoes? In 2008, the City of Chartres installed a massive light show on many of the old churches found there, including the banks of the river, some newer buildings and various important homes located there. It was an absolutely astounding show, throughout the city. Do not miss it is you are anywhere near the area. But whatever you do, don’t take the Choo Choo train.

Psycho Reno, qu'est-ce que c'est?

So many days, so many chateau's.

Last night we wandered to Blois' main square near the river. It seems as though everyone in town was there as the sun had been out, glorious all thru out the day. Strangely enough the only 2 restaurants which occupied that tree lined space were Italian and American. The travel and food channels have changed us all.

Salad full of fresh vegi's and blue cheese

Today's adventure takes us to Chambord Castle, a royal hunting lodge. The estate, owned by the French Government, is about the size of Paris inside of the perimeter. We drove quite a ways thru the beautifully kept forests, which hosted a bevy of walking trails and bike paths, before reaching our destination. Now the reason for my title today was the roof of the castle. Kings had been sticking new chimney's on top, in various styles and shapes for hundreds of years. It was quite dizzying and disconcerting. Perhaps this is where the phrase, "over the top" originated.

Big ones, little ones, round ones, square ones, pointy ones

Chambord is the largest castle thus far and had at least 5 major renovations by various royalty. Other than the somewhat bizarre roof line, it's true attraction is a double staircase in the middle tower; that depending on where you entered, one could go up or down without meeting others who were also going up or down. Just think of a M.C. Escher print and that is the general idea. It is thought that Leonardo had a hand in it's design.

On the top of Chambord

Chamborg is so far away, that During WWI (it's been D-Day over here ya'll) much of the art work from the Louvre was hidden here, including Mona Lisa. The ground floors of the castle now house the police and their horses reside in the ancient royal stables.

Really nice stables

Chambord has also jumped on the art in spaces bandwagon in the interior of the great halls.

This painting is about 15 feet long

We enjoyed and interesting drive back to Blois, finding the Donkey Chateau.

If you don't have a carrot, I'm not getting up!

Manana takes us to Chartres, using all blue highways. I can't wait!

Odo du Blois

Leaving the loveliness that was Amboise and Le Rocher (Gite de Charme) we meandered thru the French countryside in our fearless yet petitte Fiat to the City of Blois (pronounced Bla-wahh). Our last 3 days in France will be spent in Hotels therefor check in is the standard 3pm. Thru country roads we zoom to Montrichard, also to be found on the River Cher close to Chenonceau. Actually, we passed 2 large "chateau" type places before we found Montrichard.

Chateau de Chissay - Hotel  Fresh

Chissay was in a fabu town with well kept homes, most having their own troglos. Ah, heaven! Spring in the french countryside, all the fields green and yellow with some sort of grain like plant. Fresh apricots at all of the marches'. CHERRY'S.  Arriving in Montrichard, I am pleased to find a crumbling castle far above town, which has no entry fee. We picnic across the Cher, with the splendid little town our view.

Montrichard, home of neolithic people too!

I have absolutely forbidden the GPS, and so we continue to  wind about 2 lane roads on our way to Chaumont Sur Loire . Most of us have a vision in our heads of what a castle should look like.  That image was placed there by Mr. Disney by way of his renderings of Cinderella's castle. Mr. Disney used Chaumont as his model.

Chaumont, high above the Loire with really great gardens.

Well now, let me tell you hunney's, Chaumont had it going on! It wasn't just a castle, it was an Art Center. All of the stables and servant quarters had been renovated to hold art exhibits. Not only is it a UNESCO heritage site it is a contemporary art center.

Exceptional installation by Patrick Dougherty

Also, this is the first castle we have visited, that just let you wander around inside thru the servants and worker-bee's quarters. All peeling wallpaper, exposed beams and lathe work. Tiny hallways twisitng around the royal chambers.
Thus far,  Chaumont wins best vision of what can be done with a castle to make it more than just a castle.

The view from Cinderella's castle.

It's just a hop, skip and jump to Blois later that day. Guess what, there's a castle there too!

Rain, Castles and Google Maps

We arouse early to get to the Chateau Royal before the tours arrived. Buses with old folks and young folks all about us. Arriving about 30 minutes after opening and it being a 90% chance of rain, we found ourselves pretty much alone, except for the lawn guys and the ladies at the ticket counter. The wind whipping around us, we had a gorgeous view of the Loire.

Me, wearing Tammy's raincoat. Thanks, it was indispensable!

High atop the city Amboise

The biggest draw of the Castle de la Loire, was the grave of Leonardo. According to the books, his grave was uncovered many years ago from an unmarked grave during renovation and moved to the

chapel on the grounds of the castle.

We wandered around, marveling at the immaculate grounds and the general state of the buildings. It is said that there are 4.5 kilometers of tunnels under the castle for all the workers that took care of the Royal Court. But Castle de la Loire is not what I was drawn to Amboise for, it was for Chenonceau, located on the Cher River.

Built right over the Cher River.

Now, in the few days I have been in the Loire Valley, I have learned that one can go broke seeing castles. You can't swing a cat without hitting a castle or a chateau, they are frickin' everywhere. As we had already given our moolah for the day to the Castle, I just wanted to look at Chenonneau and maybe walk around the gardens. Maybe drink a noisette in the town. But there was no way to get past the gates. Thus my delightful Monkey Man got us on Maps a la google and we plotted a series of small dirt roads that looked as though they followed the edge of the river, on the far side of the castle.

Dirt path leading to the far side of Chenonneau. Raining like crazy.

Sure enough, thru the magic of our google overlords, we found a great path right up to the castle. We hid under an ancient stone archway during the worst of the rain. That didn't bother me none, because a lovely bottle of Cheverny White was waiting for us at our gite.

Amboise, the King o' France and Leo

Amboise has charisma oozing out of every crevasse, courtyard and stone within it's charming borders.  Once home of the French Royal Court, the town is a mixture of  15th and 16th century buildings (and of course, TROGLO's)

Wine and cheese and birthdays, oh my!

I choose Amboise as one of our hubs, unsuspecting it was the heart of the Early French Renaissance. nor that it has been inhabited since neolithic times. I mean, even the Visigoths visited here! The castle, as we know it, became a hub sometime around 1489, a bastion of enlighten thinkers and artists.

High above on the ramparts.

The real surprise of this small village, with it's tiny, twisty alleyways and crazy beautiful buildings, is that Leonardo Da Vinci lived the last 3 years of his life here. I guess I always thought he died in Italy, but at the age of 64, Charles VIII, the King of France, asked him to come, stay, work, paint and generally, just hang out and do what he wanted. Chuck gave Leo a Chateau with a generous allowance and a secret tunnel that connected to the castle. It is unimaginable to me that at age 65, in the late 1400's, Leo crossed the Alps on the back of a donkey. Of the personal items that he could put in the donkeys trunk (which was probably about the size of the Fiat we have rented) he brought the Mona Lisa. I always thought the French had stole her, like they stole most of the art in the Louvre.

Leonardo's Chateau

We toured his last home, viewing his last works and those of his students. Harvey was fascinated with his inventions. IBM had gifted the Chateau Leo's inventions in working model forms bringing his flying machines, swinging bridges, geared vehicles, to name a few, to life.

More of Leonardo's personal items.

The room where Mona Lisa first lived in France

It has been a rainy day and the Chateau full of school children. We wind our way back down the narrow street to the Carrefour and buy the fixin's for French chili to be cooked in our new gite, in which the kitchen is in a cave. A lovely bottle of Samuer (white wine) and a bar of dark chocolate, and we are out the door for a warm and dry evening.

They say it's your Birthday

Well it's my Birthday too, yeah.

They say it's your birthday

We're gonna have a good time.

I'm glad it's your Birthday!!

Happy Birthday to you yeah!!!!

Happy Birthday my sweet Monkey Man!

Paris to Amboise

Harvey drove us out of Paris in a blue Fiat 500. An absolutely amazing feat. That we found our rental car in a parking garage 3 stories (out of 5) underground, lit with soft purple lights; emerging on a street where we had no idea where north, south, east or west were. Harvey had googled directions to the Periphery, the large expressway that circles Paris, that morning while we were cleaning our apartment. Just in case the GPS did not work.

 

Page 1 of directions, Oy!

We were relieved when the GPS kicked in but oh, what a route it chose for us! I began to feel uneasy when I noticed we had reached the Pigalle district and then could not believe we were directed past The Moulon Rouge. Onward we traveled down to Place Clinchy, the boulevard ever widening, the buildings becoming ever more upscale. Ahead I spied and arch in the road. My stomach jumped. "Harvey, I think we are fixing to drive thru the roundabout at the Arc du Triomphe" I said, hardly believing what was going to happen.
"No, we're no where near it," Harvey stated with conviction in his voice.

The busiest roundabout in the world.

Harvey made it thru the first go: no dents, no horns, no wet pants. Nothing was impossible after this.

Finally on the A10 and heading to the Loire Valley and Amboise, these were the signs at most of the exits.

 

Travelers get nice picture of the various castles, lakes, chateaus and towns they could visit. Liking the road less traveled, we left the A10 at Blois and drove along the Loire River to Amboise. The road sits on top of a large dyke, with all the old farmhouses and fields to out right, the wide and fast river on our left. The fields are all shades of gold and green. We passed well maintained forests; fully grown trees standing attention in straight military lines. Every so often, there was camping available, with parks full of caravans, lawn chairs and canoes. Signs whizzed by for various farms advertising exotic homemade cheeses-cow and goat, asparagus-green and white, and of course, wine.

Then we reached Amboise, across the River Loire.

Just one side of the Castle

This castle and a cave to sleep in to boot! Tomorrow we explore, eat cheese and drink wine.

One of the many Troglo under the castle.