The Holy Trifecta in Mexico

It just occurred to me today, that I am finally, mentally, physically and spiritually getting over the Brew-ha-ha which is Holy week in Mexico. Whew! Any reason to party with a large dollop of pomp and circumstance thrown in.

The stage show was impressive 

We were in San Luis Potosi’ for both the Primavera festival (the start of Semana Santa) and city celebration of being 430-years-old. Families had arrived from all over the state for the festivities of music, song and art events planned for the week. We braved the afternoon sun to occupy good seats for a Queen Tribute band, which at its peak had about 3000 in attendance. After being in a town where no one spoke much English, all the attendees surrounding us knew all the words to all the songs by Queen, in English. It was fairly amazing to sit and listen 3000 singing in English. 

We will, we will, Rock You!

Then, there were these guys.

If you're from the South, you know what I mean.

Belonging to The Procession of Silence in San Luis Potosi. An annual event to mourn Passion of Christ and honor Our Lady of Solitude. It occurs on the night of Good Friday, beginning at the El Carmen Church. Paper statues of  these guys in all sizes, were found throughout the city. We were not there for the ritual, but the images of the processionals creeped me out. To close to a bad and shameful American history. (I hope they allow me back in Floridah, after this quip)

The ladies of SMA represent

We were back in SMA for Good Friday along with the Primos. Mind you, the church bells and fireworks had been going off nonstop during the week. It was exhausting to keep up with the multiple religious events happening throughout the city and hordes of people. However, we were all in to fight the crowds to witness the processional from the Parroquia de San Miguel. It was worth the wait in the sun, for the parishioners put on a great parade and show. 

Still waiting to hear how the "prisoners" were picked from the congregation

Starting with about a dozen parishioners dressed as Romans, Pontius Pilate made his speech via a microphone on the steps of the old chapel. The entire time he spoke, he held a white towel. Then came the washing of his hands. Suddenly, it was apparent what the towel was for – drying his hands before he retook the mic. I mean, who wants to be electrocuted for playing a part? Methinks, he lacks faith.

The happiest of the ensuing Jesus'

From then on, large religious statues on platforms filled with flowers one after another, emerged from the church in the order of the events leading up to the crucifixion. Alive Jesus after Passover, going to court Jesus, carrying the cross Jesus, crucified Jesus and risen Jesus. In-between many of the different depictions, there were assorted representations of the Mary’s – mother and Magdalene. Most striking symbol for the Mary’s, were that they were borne by the women in town. I’ve attended enough of these kinds of celebrations to know that this is a new development and a good one at that.

Women congregants handled the various Mary's

Primo and I spent a certain amount of time explaining the different Jesus’s to our respective spouses, which belonged to Jesus’s team.

Plenty of skulls and thorn crowns to go around.

The best event happened Sunday, The Blowing Up of the Judases. Also held on the square, civic groups, restaurants and businesses, all created life sized, paper Mache' figures of who they considered a Judas to the people during the past year. There were devils, witches and definitely politicians who we could not identify. There was also a bride? Really? Was there a bridezilla in someone’s life?

 

The man was a bad ass. He lit all the mannequins with his cigarette.

Delightful carnage in the street.

We were very lucky to get a front row seat for the event. All the figures were strung up across the street and one by one, set on fire. A circle of firecrackers around the waist set the figures spinning. 3 spins and then a large explosion blew the figures to smithereens. Part of the fun, was the excitement of being able to procure a limb, foot, or head of any of the Judases and for the next hour or so, we kept seeing body parts being carried thru the crowds by children and adults alike. 

 

 

Mummy's and Mariachi's, Oh My!

Guanajuato means Frog City

 
Guanajuato is between the arid north of Mexico and the lusher south, and is geographically in between the Trans Mexican Volcanic Belt and the Mexican Plateau.  Initially settled by the Spanish in the 1520s due to silver deposits found around the city, it was another rich, mining town. Most of the Pueblo Magico’s we’ve visited are in the colonial style, the architecture in the Centro of town is of the Baroque style and quite frankly amazing.

The Centro is not a square, it’s sort of a triangle (with a big church, of course) and the roads emanating from it are charming winding, narrow streets. It’s quite reminiscent of Mediterranean cities and very different for Mexico.

Quinceanera photo shoot

Our first impression of town, was of fear – the kind you might experience on a bad carnival ride. Our driver was a maniac on the road from SMA to Guanajuato. As he didn’t know exactly where our hotel was, he googled directions. Seems fair. He did know we were going to Centro. Anyway, sometimes google gives you the closest route, which is not the best route. We ascended high above the city, in what could be termed not the best of neighborhoods. Suddenly, the road began to dive into the valley, where Centro is. I mean, straight down. As we continued, the road became narrower and narrower. Pull in the rear-view mirror narrow and no way to back up. Pray to a deity you don’t believe in narrow.

After a harrowing 15 or so minutes, we reach the center of town, find a place to stop and get out for the lovely El Meson de la Poetas, our home for a couple of days.

 

One of the many outdoor sitting areas at Poeta's

Close to the Kissing Street (so narrow is this street, that one can stand on either side and still kiss your sweetie) and the birthplace of Diego Rivera, the hotel is a maze of corridors, as several large homes have been combined to create the space. We were in room 404 and the Primos in Room 403. Not next door as one would expect, but down a hallway and down a set of stairs and up another set of stairs, around a corner. The first night we got lost in the hotel, trying to find our room, after only one drink!

Most of the major roads thru the city are in tunnels.

Arriving in afternoon, we head toward the Guanajuato Funicular, which provides a cheap and scenic way to climb up the hillside to the Monumento Al Pipila. The monument offers panoramic views of the bright buildings and rolling hills in and around the city, as we wait for sunset. A hive of activity, there are young girls in their Quinceanera dresses to document the occasion in photos and we get to witness engagement wedding pictures, replete with drone footage, such is the beauty of the surroundings.

Monumento Al Pipila

 

Afterward we head toward Jardin de la Union, a delightfully landscaped park, near Teatro Juarez, where we have a lovely cocktail and try to avoid the multiple Mariachi Bands competing for attention. The night is spent trying to outrun the musicians, so that we can have conversation.

The next day, none of us are at our best and we once again ascend the hills to the Museo Momias de Guanajuato. In 1865, city officials deemed it necessary to remove some of the bodies from the overcrowded public cemetery – Santa Paula - in order to make room for more, as a pandemic of Cholera was raging throughout the city and country side. However, authorities quickly discovered that what they were finding weren't skeletons as they expected, but rather mummified bodies complete with facial expressions, as it is believed many were buried alive. It turns out that the combination of area's dry atmosphere and the mineral content of the soil preserves and naturally mummifies bodies- a process which only takes 5 or 6 years.

Most of these Mummy's have known names.

I don’t mind mummies, but good lord, the operators packed in the tourists, in spite of the notices to wear a mask and to social distance, which is the law in Mexico. Hot, stuffy, packed like sardines and with an anxious cousin and husband, we pushed thru the crowds and grabbed the first exit out that we could.