The most horrible thing imaginable happened today right off
the bat, at the Stalingrad Metro Station. There had been a wonderful, leisurely
morning with a stop at the local patisserie for café and croissants. We bought
our 5 day transit tickets without a hitch and were off to Musee’de l’Orangerie
located next to the Obelisque de la Concorde on the banks of the Seine.
The train pulled up and we entered an almost full compartment. I slid into the
only available seat next to a handsome, young hipster. He glanced quickly at me
and then to Harvey, whereupon the
young Parisian stood up and gave Harvey
his seat. Balefully Harvey looked
at me and said, “Oh my god, he gave the old man a seat!”
At Pont de la Concorde we spied our first glance of Tour
Eiffel. The Square was circus of tourists, buses, police and local traffic. Harvey
saved a Chinese man from being run over while he was taking pictures. (The French
actually do get points for hitting
tourists!) The Chinese couple followed us to the next light while we laughed in
broken English and shook hands upon departing; the Chinese toward the Arc de
Triomphe and we to the walk east along the Seine.
The Musee de l’Orangerie, which holds several of Monet’s
giant water lily series, was closed on Tuesdays. Not to be discouraged we
wandered across the Seine to Musee d’Orsay which had ONE
MILLION people in line to get in. Not wanting to spend our day in line, it was
time for a bathroom break. Now if you’ve never been to Paris,
you don’t know how hard it is to find facilities. Even if you find a toilet,
you still don’t know if what you will find is a hole in the floor with a string
to hold onto. 50-50 chance. Best bet is to find a nice bar and order something.
This we did, only to discover that they did not take credit. Having not yet
found a credit exchange, we had 6 euros between us. The bill was 5.40
Fashion shoot near Musee d'Orsay |
Rue de Lille |
Having struck out with 2 Museums we turned back to the Seine,
strolling along the waterfront past Ile de la Cite and Ile St-Louis admiring
the opulent barges that were moored to the sides. Each barge was decorated
differently, all with gardens on top and lavish patios. We continued to stroll
until we reached Quai de Rapee’, where the St Martin
canal empties into the Seine. In the distance we could
see the giant monument of the Bastille, the Colonne de Juillet. By this time
our dogs were barking, so across the bridge we scampered toward the metro and a
quick ride home for an afternoon nap, with the hope of an evening out in St
Germain des Pres.
On the Seine across from Canal St Martin |
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