Stupa-fication – the process to visiting too many Pagodas
and Temples daily, blending into each other.
The progression of traveling partners dreading to hear the whine: “just
one more-we’ll never be here again!”
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Ceiling decoration. |
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Even I can get the malaise of Stupa-fication. Bagan will
take you there, there are just so many, over 2000. As a group, we choose a few of the
biggest and choicest to visit on our last day. Mr. Myo is on time to deliver us
to the Pagodas.
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Young devotee's |
Undoubtedly, the most famous, largest
and shiniest Pagoda in the area is the Shwezigon Pagoda. Someone has told us
that the beginning of the word “Swhe” indicates gold or golden. The Shwezigon
Pagoda or the Ground of Victory, was completed 1077-1113. It is said that a
rare white elephant picked the spot to build this Pagoda. Tradition has it that
it has on the premisies,
a tooth and
collar bone of the Buddha. (Poor Buddha, they must have chopped him up into
many little pieces, as most of the big Temples we have visited here and there have
relics of him). All the older Buddha’s have capes, which I like. It makes him
more of a superhero.
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Lovely Lady Buddha |
The Swhezigon, is lovely but the nicest part for me, was the
small Temple for the Lady Buddha. IT was beautiful and elegant in it’s
simplicity. She stood alone with a simple silver alter and a single vase of
flowers. The room was painted sky blue, with no ornamentation. The floor was
laid with tiles of roses and lotus. I was reminded of what it could be to lay
in field of flowers under the blue, blue sky. It was peaceful oasis in a riot
of worship.
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Foot Picture! |
The Adanda Temple is much more of a triumph of building
technology. Adanda means “buddhas infinite wisdom”. It too is ancient being
built around 1090. It is an example of an airconditioned building, due to the
fact is is laid out like a Greek Cross, with cross ventilation corridors in all
directions. Along the four main corridors are the 4 Buddhas reincarnation.
(Remember we are waiting for the 5th incarnation) Young Monks wait
near the corridors, with alms buckets. For a small donation they will pose for
a picture. Sometimes happy, sometimes not so much.
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Looking for Alms |
Driving in Asia is best done to professionals. There are no
lines, no order and the streets are lined with all sorts of vehicles (motorized
and animal powered). Mr Myo unfortunately was fiddling with the radio and runs
into another vehicle. This is not good for Mr. Myo, but for us is somewhat
entertaining. No police are called, who knows if there is insurance here but
there is a whole lot of hand waving and head slapping. Poor Mr. Myo it is his
fault. Somehow, he convinces the injured party to let him take us back to our
hotel. Nobody wants to inconvenience a tourist.
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On the corner, near our hotel |
The end of our day is spent on a buggy ride, out to the
fields where farmers plow the land next to temples of little or no note. Horse
carriage drivers are trained and licensed by the state. Their horses are well
treated compared to horses belonging to farmers. The pecking order of the road
is Pedestrians first and animal carts second but here on the sandy back roads,
we are kings. As the sun sets, we arrive to a 2 story temple which has a
staircase to assend to the top. We can take pictures and our horses can rest
and drink deeply from the water station.
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My ride awaits. |
The stairs to the top are narrow steep and lit with candles.
No steps in Myanmar are equal height. The outlet at the top, is shallow and one
must bend over – almost crawling out. The climb is worth it. The sun setting is
lovely over the farmland surrounding us. The wind is cool after the hot day. We
are all apprehensive about returning to the stairs but our chariots await to
take us home in the dusk, when all the sound we hear are the clopping of hoofs,
the creaking of wagon wheels and the loud chirping of crickets, signaling
nightfall.
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Nightfall |
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We may never get down from here. |
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