Christmas in Progresso

 

My Favorite home is being renovated

30 + years ago I went to Merida, Mexico for Christmas with my brother and his family. Little did we know that a cold front of epic proportions was about to hit. We drove from Atlanta and arrived at the Tampa airport for our flight in a blanket of snow flurries. No worries we said, we're going to sunny Mexico. It took 2 days for the cold bomb to reach us in Merida. The temperature dropped to freezing. There are few heaters in this part of Mexico because it's always warm. You are lucky person to have a hot water heater in your home in this part of Mexico for a shower. No one even sells sweaters in this part of the world for gods sake, BECAUSE IT’S ALWAYS HOT! We hunkered down in our hotel room to keep warm that Christmas. Luckily it was a spa hotel and every room featured a steam bath, which we blasted continuously with the door open for several days. It was a moist experience and we returned home with a Christmas story like no other.

Gusts to 50mph off the Gulf.

This is a story about when God says, “HA!”

The Arctic Blast approaches.

Once again, I find myself in Mexico during the holiday with the exact same weather. What are the chances? This time the temp dropped only to the 50’s, but the real craziness was the wind. Gusts up to 70mph. We could see dark line of the front rolling in across the flat Gulf. It became a very scary day or two. I firmly believe, that is there had been no hurricane shutters on the front balcony of our Gulf front condo, the sliding glass doors would have blown in. As it were, they were bouncing in and out of their tracks in response to the wind. The noise was deafening between the windows shaking and the howling of the wind. We spent our days sitting in the bedrooms, which were less windy and farthest from the beach. One of the living room windows was installed backwards and upside down, which created a wondrous waterfall during the height of the storm and a subsequent pond under the dining table. Ah, adventure, You are never fun when it’s happening 

Merida is full of old homes like this along the beach

The Yucatan - my first experience with international travel.

In the 70’s the Mexican government developed Cancun as a resort. When I first visited in the late 70’s, there were all of 5 hotels in Cancun. None were the large properties that one visits now. To kick-start the tourism trade, the government subsidized flights into the new airport and for most of the 70/80’s, I could fly round trip to the Yucatan/Quintana Roo for $99.00 USD.

Beautiful beaches, but I didn’t like the newness and artificial vibe of Cancun, so my previous partner and I explored down the beach as far as Belize and deep inland across the peninsula. Beautiful Merida became our go to entry point; clean, safe and cosmopolitan, with buildings reminiscent of New Orleans. We took every opportunity to visit. Close to beaches on the Gulf, we ventured to Progresso via the bus, a 30 minute ride from town.

Large Dino's adorn the roof of the Museum

I returned for years with friends who were amazed at the pristine location and lack of tourism. The beauty of Progresso was also in its incredible colonial homes which dotted the Malecon and beaches. Impressively, large homes with summer breezes for the rich during summer. My favorite home in the world, old then, still remains at the end of the Malecon. Due to all these great memories and close proximity to Miami, this is where we decided to retreat during Christmas while waiting on our Spanish Visa.

Today, Progresso, now boasts the longest pier in the world. Horrifyingly large Carnival Cruise ships stop twice a week. The Malecon was beautifully renovated to accommodate the holiday cruisers, as well as 2 or 3 blocks which extend to the central Mercado.  It remains paradise, as long as you’re not in town on Tuesdays or Thursdays when the ship rolls in.

9pm New Years Eve on the Malecon

Our home this month, is a rented a 2-bedroom condo, directly on the beach at the end of the Malecon. Built in the 70’s (or thereabouts), it has a million-dollar view and has a very comfortable bed. We elected to stay on the 3^rd floor as part of our exercise routine. To the left of us is a playa bar, where you can sit under the palm trees on rented chaise lounge for $7 USD and be pampered all day long. Beers, tequila, rum, tacos, pescado frito; you can bet your bottom dollar if you ask for something they do not have, someone will be sent to town to get it for you. For the next month, their music will drift thru my windows from 8am – 8pm. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, expect to hear old American rock and roll.

A block from the beach where the tourist rarely go

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