2018-05-20 Pezilla to SMDLM

It was a wonderful sleep. Up for breakfast with strong coffee’s and homemade yogurt Thierry can buy at the local cheesery. He slices up one of the sweetest melons we have tasted in forever. Oh, that’s right, from his garden.

Thierry's cooking!

In the mornings, everyone goes early to the boulangerie to buy bread, thru out the country. Most will close by noon. We follow Thierry to the  town’s single boulangerie. Today we will leave for Saintes Maries by way of a Gypsy camp near Perpignan to see friends of Cathy. We buy a special fouchgau (sp); a pastry filled with custard and chips of chocolate, to take to the camp. It is a specialty of the region.

Leaving Thierry at the boulangerie, Cathy takes us on the very short tour of Pezilla. It is a medieval site/town. I am trying not to say “city” because the original town, consisted of a church and a round, string of houses attached to each other, creating a walled fortress. The rest of the town which later developed here, is also arranged in a large circle.

Again, Thierry has created a fabulous lunch of Spanish omelet, large green salad and fresh bread. He and his daughter will visit the camp with us to meet with John and Gloria.  Thierry has known them for years and they traditionally help him with his harvest. 

The old and new of things

One does not just enter a gypsy enclave willy-nilly. You must be invited, and the families must agree that you can come in on some gipsy level.  Outsiders are not welcomed.  John and Thierry have a long relationship as does Caty du Floride with this particular family.

Lunchy

The camp is in between 2 major roadways in Perpignan, residing on land no one wants. It was purchased by the family. They cannot be run off. Gypsy’s as a whole are not welcomed and are very discriminated against. Entering the camp, my first impression is that it is neat as a pin; well maintained with trees, flowers, a common fire pit and large gravel drive. John, his wife and small daughter live in a small manufactured home. There are other stationary pre-fab homes here, as well as the ubiquitous caravans scattered throughout. This year it is John and Gloria’s duty to stay and guard the camp, while the others go to Sainte Marie. The camp is never left empty, for safety’s sake.

Cathy and Momma Gloria in camp

They are such a lovely couple. The picnic table beside their home is set up for guest’s:  coffee, cream, lemonade, wine, sherry, water and Marlboros. Everything ready for guests and a party. Cathy presents the fouchgas to our hosts.  She has also brought presents for their shy little daughter, also a Gloria. Little Gloria sits tight in momma’s lap. The llama keychain Cathy has left on the table catches her eye. She carefully approaches and slides it into her tiny hand – then runs inside her home with her treasure. This is a Manoush gipsy camp and Little Gloria does not have much experience with outsiders. Minutes later, she is back in mom’s arms delighted but still wary. Now Cathy brings out the large green plush gator from Florida. Gloria’s eyes are wide and shrewd. She does not move from mom’s arms and her eyes never leave the gator.

We drink, they smoke and before you know it, little Gloria has the gator. There is much exoticness for her to take in between the guests and the gifts.  While Gloria is still reserved, we can tell she is very, very pleased with her new loot.

We while away in the sun speaking in French and Spanish till it is time to say goodbye.