2018-05-21 SMDLM

We arrived in Les Saintes Marie de la Mer (from here on out referred to as SMDLM) late in the evening. Cathy has a regular place she and her friends have stayed for the last 15 or so years. The owners have hidden the key for her in the enclosed driveway. The apartment is close to the center of town and the beach. All we all need a few necessities at the store and just to hang out for a while. Cathy broke many toes prior to her trip and a rest would be helpful.

First Gypsy Spoting

SMDLM is a small beach town, which means in a way, it’s a party town. Everyone’s on Vacay! Close to Arles, Nimes and Avignon the locals from this part of the South of France come here to play. Add tnow to the mix of regular tourists, the arrival of several hundred gypsies for the Festival. The businesses in town have learned to adapt to the influx and the proceeding crazy. One way the revelers are handled; many of the grocers are only open in the morning. If you have not bought your supplies by lunchy, you are out of luck. One small bodega is open this evening.  You can’t go in during the festival. The owner has a barricade at the front door where he takes your order (and your money). There is a line out into the square for supplies. We have our list because no one wants to stand in line any longer than we must. Milk for coffee, something salty and WINE!!

Line for WIne

Our first morning we are up and ready to stalk Gypsy’s. Not just any gypsy, the ones who make the best music. It's time to see who's in town. SMDLM is situated around a large church. L’englies. There are several small squares around the church in the maze of small streets. We head straight for "La Salsa" for Coffee “with crem.”

Crazy Antonio sings with passion

Before you know it, we hear what is later to become a regular fixture of our visit, “Caty! Caty! Caty!” this is the call of the folks who know and love Cathy de Floride.  We meet up with Estaban, who Harvey and I had the pleasure of meeting years ago, and his lovely wife, Maria (of course). Another table is pulled up. Shortly after, Bambo Baliardo wanders over. He is from the big shot family of Manita de Plata and it is an honor to give him money for a CD or so he thinks. He and his woman sit down for a drink with us. 

Bambo and Estaban looking like Miami Vice

No one is playing music today. It’s a day when people start arriving; the town is calm, and everyone is checking everyone else out. It seems a lot like high school – American Graffiti style- where your cruise up and down the main drag to see which of the cool kids are here and where they are going to party. No one is ready to make commitments either. 

"Caty, Caty, Caty!"  Valeire and Family from Montprllier

 We are planning on a down day. Harvey returns to the apartment and Cathy and I head over to Gypsy Walmart. When the gypsies arrive, they take over a large empty space located on the main road, closest to the beach and put up their own flea market full of gypsy things. It’s a big affair and one can find everything here you need to clothe yourself, cook with, camp with, make a mattress with, furnish  your home (or caravan)……it’s too much stuff for most of us to imagine. 

 

The Fete has begun!

“Caty, Caty, Caty!” this is the call from Swings mother. Swing is a young girl who was on The Voice-France, last year. One of their youngest contestants. She is wildly popular and with good reason. Her mother is thrilled to see Cathy and gives her the ultimate compliment, “You are here. Now I know the Fete has begun. “

On the patio at Caty's. with Joanna

Harvey and Oliver talk boats

 We have dinner companions, friends of Cathy of course, Johanna and Oliver. Johanna and Cathy met years ago when Cathy lived in France for several months, learning the language. Johanna is from England but has lived here for 16 years. Oliver is French and is working on his English. They are a most lovely couple. Cathy is Johanna’s daughters godmother. We’ve made plans to meet up with them in a day or two, close to their home in Arles at their weekend place. 

Around the Church

The nights are still cool here. Windows wide open and covers up to our necks, we sleep in anticipation of the party that awaits us during the Fete du Sainte Sara Noir.