Saturday, December 30, 2023

Happy Holiday’s Family! La Tamalda



Grampaw and Grandmas Maynors House in Memphis,
now Condos.

It’s been quite a year! This is our first year away from the states and we are still loving Spain. Both Pablo (Harvey) and I have enrolled in a Spanish school, the Academy de Idioma - Pais Vasco. Going back to school is hard especially when it’s immersive and the teacher speaks no English. Though part of the experience is meeting new people. All our new friends are Ukrainian! Da.

This year we are having La Tamalada, in keeping with McMurry traditions; the making of tamales on Christmas Eve and the eating of tamales on Christmas. 

Speaking of tamales, we sincerely believe Pablo was visited by the spirit of Big Ed during this seasons search for tamale fixings.

I bet 1 Million Dollars, Tamales were
eaten the night of this picture.
Kidney fat from Lambs

 

There were always tamales in Memphis on the holidays and family occasions because of Jack’s Tamales. I recall the old, converted gas station that was Jack’s takeaway joint. Packed with old kitchen stoves piled high with tall pots of steaming tamales, we would go home with bags filled with fabulous Mississippi style tamales. We never made them then, since you could buy them. 

Getting ready to roll, Cocktail at my
side.

We moved to Atlanta in the late 60’s, where there were no tamales to be found. Bill followed soon after, or maybe he was already there? No se. Our only reliable source of tamales was Big Ed. He and Janie spent the winters in Atlanta. They drove across the country in Autumn when the tourist season ended in Seaside. Their old grey truck, replete with homemade camper on top arrived in Georgia, packed with exotic Mexican staples. Cases of Rotel, hot sauces, dried peppers, 5-pound bags of maíz and corn husks for tamales.

We cannot find corn husks here.
Banana leafs are fabulous for fish too.

Tamales are not hard to make, just time consuming. Except for the corn husks, it was pretty easy to find all the ingredients in South Georgia. The hardest thing to procure, Big Ed insisted, was the secret ingredient for tamales: the addition of KIDNEY FAT to the masa mix. Nothing else would compare, not lard, not Crisco, nada! Of course, as Ed was such an eccentric person, we made absolutely tons of jokes at his expense for his relentless searches at butcher shops for the elusive kidney fat. I mean really, who the hell cooks with kidney fat? Is that even a thing? Who wants to eat anything with kidney fat in it? EW! Mac and Lee swore up and down, he had lost his mind. Yet every Christmas, the conversation of Kidney Fat and the hunt for the fat, circulated.

This was probably a Ham situation in Locust Grove

Long after Ed and Janie found their final home at the Parkwood Cemetery in Jackson, Ms., I learned to make tamales on my own. (I think we all have a version; I know Mike did. Lindsey does now.) When Bill and Marne visited Lee right before she died, we made tamales and the question on our lips was “these tamales are good but were they “Ed” good?” Memory is tricky. All the things I didn’t know and wished I had asked. 

Buttery-smooth outside and green chicken inside.

 

Light years later, it was Pastry Week on the Great British Bake Off. the challenge was for a savory, hot water pastry which traditionally used Suet. Of course, the hosts explained that suet was animal fat and BAM! It hit me. “That must be Grandpa’s Kidney Fat.” I called Mike immediately and we indulged hysterical laughter and memories of kidney fat banter. It was Real. It was a Thing! Grandpa must have been taking about suet! After this epiphany I attempted to find suet, as now I was armed with a proper name. It was impossible to find. Not even at the Dekalb Farmers Market. Theres only so much we can hold in our brains, and after a lightyear or two more, I forgot about suet.

 Pablo nor I mind being alone on the holidays but it’s nice to have a ritual, so when we find ourselves at loose ends during the Season, we make tamales. They freeze so nicely. They make good gifts. That’s our plan this year.


Our walk after the eating of tamales. The sun sits low in the sky during winter.

In line at the butchers Tuesday, it was fascinating watching the process of a butcher taking a whole side of beef and carving, fileting and trimming the meat to the customers instructions. Meat is not fast here in Spain, but it certainly is as you want it. And I suddenly remembered Suet. I bet I can get it in Spain! My phone was at home and there was absolutely no way I was going to attempt that conversation IN SPANISH, without Google Translate. I came home to get ready for school. I reminisced to Pablo about the Fat Fairy, tamales, family gone but not forgotten and was determined to return to the butchers.

That evening, after school, Harvey told me of his adventure looking for suet. (Really, at this point just get me some Crisco please!) He told me that he had figured out the way to ask for it. 

Our reading level is 5-8 years old.
These are our recent reads.

 The butcher had been puzzled at the odd request coming from the old, white haired American dude standing in front of him trying in his best Spanish, asking for “Seba”. Questions were asked, arms were waved, knifes were pointed and ultimately the Butcher looked Harvey in the eye and said, “Oye, tu quieres grasa de riñón.” Harvey asked for the butcher to repeat the name, so we could remember it and consulted google translate. He couldn’t believe his eyes! The translation was frickin’ Kidney Fat. “Of course, you want kidney fat,” said the butcher. Hahahahaha. The butcher said that the nicest fat was from lambs and proceeded to bring out whole kidneys and “Pop” the kidneys out of the fat sacks, which according to Harvey was slightly unsettling.


Felizes Festivos familia!

Well, that’s it, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. I now have kidney fat-sacks in my fridge. I am sure, somewhere Ed is having quite a laugh. Saturday, there will be tamales made by McMurry hands and they will contain the secret ingredient, once again. 

Happy Holidays to my family. Harvey and I wish to all of you, health, hope and happiness in the New Year.

 Ps I’m off to google how to render kidney fat. Wish me luck.


 


La Tamalda - Carmen Lomas Graza

 

For more of the tamale making tradition  - Talmalda

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