2018-05-09 (Weds – Avignon)

Tourist Wisdom-get to the destination early, before the tour buses.

On the Top of the Palace de Papes

Up to a crisp, clear morning and off to the Palace de Popes. Our apt is behind The Palace, by several blocks. Cobble stone streets twist until you arrive at the towering edifice; an accordion player and her poodle camped daily in a tiny alleyway beside an ancient guardhouse. La Vie en Rose, echos on the stone walls.

The Palace overlooks the entirety of Avignon and up and down the Rhone. 2 distinct buildings, the palace was built by 2 different Popes – you know when a you buy a house, there is always something to renovate. Same for the popes - 4 popes lived there and it is the largest remaining Gothic structure from the middle ages in Europe. Construction began in 1252. Arriving almost first in line, we miss the arrival of the tour groups. It gives us a petite amount of time to enjoy the immensity of the structure with few other early birds.

It goes without saying, the 14^th century was a long time ago.  For the most part, the palace remains empty and devoid of furnishing as nothing survived after the Church’s transition back to Rome.  We are provided with an iPad upon arrival for our tour, which hangs around our neck and has attached earphones for the history lesson provided. As you enter different rooms and chambers, the iPad is programed to show you what a 360-degree view of the room would have looked like during its occupation– painted ceilings, statuary, furniture, etc., all based on excavations and recorded history and digitally mastered for our enjoyment. Pretty neat. However, I would have liked to have known up front about the subsequent years of occupation after the Popes left. Some of the ancient renovations just didn’t’ make sense, whatsoever until we reached the last major reception hall.  it was explained that the palace had been used as an army barracks for many, many years. Slowly the palace is being restored, but it is slow going to unfix the massacre the army and time provided.

Above the palace, is Dom Gardens.

A high spot some thirty meters above the Rhone, this was a natural refuge and the cradle of human occupancy in this area- archaeological studies have revealed human presence since the Neolithic period. The view is outstanding with breezes from the Rhone and vistas of the surrounding countryside.

32 staircases later, we begin looking for a creperie. 2 more staircases and 1 blister later, we find a lovely square with outside seating and settle in for a leisurely lunch with wine. Crepes in this part of the world are buckwheat, lending a nutty flavor to the dish. I have forsaken my no carb diet until my return to the US. Harvey has the tapenade, emmental and tomato crepe. I settle for chicken provincial and a glass of wine, which becomes my undoing, after desert.

 

This is not a crepe-it is a French Taco.

I have been off of sugar/carbs for almost a year now and the lovely white wine and almond tart acts on my body like a Quaalude. I am barely able to stagger home for a hard and heavy nap.