Saturday, May 26, 2018

2018-05-15 Nimes



Dear Marissa,

We had a moment in which the universe split into multiple fragments, each rolling and tumbling along its ill-defined and random pathway.
We couldn't remember what day it was!
All is better now.
Harvey

Entry to an apartment at the villa Bernis
Sometimes travel is like this. The days merge into each other. There are few timetables to keep up with and one follows the rhythm of the internal clock despite phones, wifi and the unrelenting news feeds. Harvey had to call Tshirt in the states, just to make sure. We weren’t even drinking yet.
Nimes is sometimes referred to French Rome. The Arena, The Magne Tower, The Temple of Diana, and the Masion Carree, all incredible examples of Romanesque Building.


Though no longer Romanesque, the Jardin de la Fontaine de Nimes, was once part of the Roman town which began here in around 28 BC.  Prior to that, archeology suggests the Celts were here. The Romans understood the need for a water source and the need to store water for the lean times. At Nemousus (Nimes) height, there were 60,000 inhabitants here relying on this water supply. We witnessed amazing examples in Istanbul where there are vast underground caverns under the city, containing a sea of water.

 
The spring which supplies the fountain is central in the park. The boulevard which leads to the park, has a large flowing river in the middle of the embankments. Once in the park, the channel becomes a large circular enclosure. Looking down into it, the water is clear and you can see the ionic columns holding up the pathways.



The park was renovated in the 1700’s and was the first civic park in France. It’s pretty gosh darn, fancy with Baroque statuary throughout. Swans float past (boy howdy, they are large, large birdies) on the large body of water. I don’t believe I have every seen a swan up close and personal. In a knife fight, they would win.

The park today was full of locals, school children, joggers and everyone who had a dog.
The ruins of the Temple of Diana are adjacent to the spring. Up the embankment, stands the Magne Tower and octagonal tower, built long before the Romans called Nimes home.


Later in our day, we began our stroll down the boulevard, that will be the main route of the Feria, ending in the large courtyard beside the Arena. We spy a young hipster, playing a bass ukulele. Even if he is busking, it’s worth a conversation with him.


Guiseppe is Italian. He is on an extended journey thru Euroupe with his beautiful instrument. The front of his uke is intricately carved. He is playing an Italian song. All of his possessions are on the seat next to him. He’s not busking, just resting and playing and hoping to meet new friends. He speaks pretty good English and has arrived to the Feria, for the music. He is besides himself when we tell him about the gypsy fete in Saint Marie and states he will be there! His excitement is palpable.
We wish him a bon journey and continue. I spy a post card store and enter to purchase more cards to send back home. One of the beautiful and traditional souvenirs of Provence, are bees.
 

I doubt anyone does not understand the importance of bees in agriculture. Here they are a symbol of plenty. The ubiquitous Provencal bee has its origins in the old 1st century Merovingian dynasty. Childeric I, the father of the French hero, Clovis I, was the first French king to use the bee as a symbol. The bee is believed to be one of the oldest symbols of French royalty. I buy a couple and look to Harvey for the bag he is carrying twhich contains bread and dessert for tonight. He does not have it any longer!
“You left it when you sat down next to Giuseppe – go back and see if he is still there.”

I have no doubt that Giuseppe is long gone, but it’s worth a try. As I finish my purchase, Harvey returns empty handed. It is not matter – just a lost bag and some delicious bread. I know where the bakery is that we bought if from, so we decide to retrace our steps and buy another loaf.

Crossing the public square behind the Arena, I spy Giuseppe where we left him, still playing his Uke. 

Le Chat de Bernis
“Where did you go to look for him Harvey?”
Harvey is puzzled and not quite sure what direction or where he went off looking. We greet our Italian friend – the bag still beside him. He say’s he already looked thru it. Ha. We offer him the apple tarts we had intended for dinner. Giuseppe is thrilled as are we, to have our daily bread back.
I hope we meet up with Giuseppe in SMDLM. We will buy him a beer

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